Fine hair, like any texture, has positive and negatives aspects. The first thing required is to honestly accept what this texture will and will not do, and communicate this information to your client. For example, fine hair is easy to blow dry. It’s also good platform for cutting into strong shapes, like a clean bob. However, cutting in short layers can have the scalp showing through, and trying to get it to hold it shape can be difficult. The next is accessing what it needs. Most commonly, the goal is to get fine hair to look fuller and denser, giving it a better silhouette. Everything needs to be balanced in order to achieve this goal. Color technique should be devised to make hair look fuller as well as enhance the cut design. We sometimes use a technique because some celebrity made it famous, and so we try it on everyone. This only works for some clients. A common mistake is not thinking this through, and using a color technique that is not customized for the client in our chair. This is like trying to put a size 8 pair of pants on everyone. There are many factors in making a shape complimentary. You should always adjust your technique to fit the texture. The texture will be different if using shears, razor or texture shears or a combination of all these tools. Having a solid foundation in cutting techniques is key. For example, using a lower elevation to create softness without taking away density is one such technique. Darker shades make hair look fuller, and placement of these shades creates depth. Imagine a dark bob and a blonde bob, the silhouette is more noticeable in the darker shape. Okay, so not everyone can be dark. A different complimentary shade put in the right place can create more depth of shape creating an illusion of weight, even on blonde hair. This is how new patterns of color are created. I truly believe that to come up with a design or color alone without thinking about head shape, texture and the person you plan to use it on, is an isolated and outdated way of creating new patterns. It should always be a collaboration with the client in mind, and their hair’s texture is truly a huge contributing factor to creating a complimentary fresh shape. Product and finish are also pretty important. My favorite product for plumping hair is Redken’s Thickening Lotion. This can be put right into damp hair, but first rub it in your hands like hand crème then apply. If you are setting it, Redken’s Guts, used at the roots, is great for root lift. Blow dry these two products into the hair and you will get a great dry texture for setting with a curling iron or flat iron. If hair feels too soft especially in the mid shaft and the ends, then spray Redken’s Fabricate or Work Force and then set. Thickening Lotion is great for both men and women, it has a great application consistency and soft fragrance. Key point: don’t over use product! Too much can weigh down the hair fabric and cause the hair to be flat and lifeless. Practice, and knowing the texture we are working on, are both so important.